Winter Surfs
Mother Nature heard my recent calls for some waves and time in the water and delivered in a perfect way. Sunday came with 55 degrees, sunshine, and fun little lake waves. Just what my body and mind were in desperate need of, because like I’ve said before water is an amazing healer and the beach is always a good idea!
The unseasonably warm surf made my heart extremely happy (even though if I think abut the unseasonal weather temps too long it does lead to some bleak thoughts, another chat for another day.) Most surfs on the lake come with lower air temperatures, lower water temperatures and more ice. Most people call me crazy, but it’s okay I get it, braving the cold is fairly crazy. I figured I share a little blurb I wrote in my journal back in December after a lovely little sunset surf, I think it helps show why I love my winter lake surfs and why we lake surfers brave the cold.
“Dec. 20th 2019
When Scott and I pulled up at the lake I really thought it was going to be a shit day, but I tried to remind myself that a shit day in the lake is better than no day in the lake. I was quickly proved wrong- it ended up being a nice little session. It was a bit messy, but not in a way that kicks your ass. I paddled much more than usual, I’m seeing improvement. I was able to paddle out past the white water, out back to where I could get onto some open faces. I was able to work on popping up quick and dropping into the wave while already on my feet. Another improvement, a step forward.
A sunset lake surf. The sun wasn’t shinning bright, it was hidden behind the clouds, but as it started to slip under the horizon it flashed shades of fuchsia across the tips of the clouds. While the color didn’t last long, it stuck around long enough to turn the glassy surface of the water the faintest shade of pink.
The cool, no, cold water was a welcomed surprise. As the water seeped through the neoprene covering my body it’s icy touch brought relief to my sick and achy body.
Each time I found myself riding a wave, everything else fell away. I didn’t feel sick. I forgot about my chilly toes and finger tips. The only thoughts in my head become about how I can maneuver down the line for a little while longer. The thoughts go something like this:
-pop up.
-okay, center your weight.
-inch forward a bit.. oh hey look! I’m walking the board a bit!
-alright, now shift your weight to the back leg, bend the knees.
-I can make it a little longer, bend those knees, fully crouch down.
-okay, time to bail.
Those thoughts all flash through my head quickly, one right after another, in the 10 seconds or so that the ride lasts. It feels longer though.
Some nice rides were taken all the way into the beach where you had to hop off to avoid the already forming ice shelf. While the shelf is forming and the pier is covered in a sheet of ice, there are no ice bergs to dodge in the water today. Have to enjoy that while we can.
I’ve had a some beautiful thoughts the last couple times in the water. I’ve thought up words to describe my time in the water, words that I’ve pieced together here in my journal-
I love that I am increasingly more confident in the water.
I love that I am taking more chances and going for more waves.
I love that I can see improvement.
I love that I can feel my strength increasing.
I love that I’m inspired in the water.
I love that this is something my dad do together.
I love watching my dad be totally stoked in the water, even when I steal his wave.
I love surfing.”