Surf's up

Two days of waves and lake surfing sure makes me wonder why I don't live somewhere I can surf, even if its not well, all the time (I suppose my surfing would be better if I could do it all the time).

Lately jumping in the water with my board is about the only time my mind can focus on one thing and be 100% present and focused. It's the only time my mind isn't wandering in all different directions, but instead just focused on the task at hand. Focused only on how to get out to the right spot, on making sure I don't get blasted by the next wave, choosing a wave that actually looks ridable, things I can do to try and be more successful at surfing. It's comforting knowing there is a place, a thing, that helps me quiet my head.